How to Build Your Own 3D Printer from Scratch with a Budget – Definitive Guide
Today, 3D printing is essential in most areas of our lives. You will find it in the office, at home, studios, and young tech enthusiasts’ rooms. Unfortunately, most users have to dig deeper into their pockets to own one of these printers. But there’s a way to evade the high cost and still enjoy a quality 3D printer. Are you wondering how? By building a 3D printer from the scratch!
Though a DIY 3D printer is a solution, it requires a lot of time and effort. Also, it would help if you considered the 3D printer type to build. The market has many types, but you can choose from the two common types. For your insight, here are the details of the most common types of 3D printers;
Types of 3D printers
- Delta Printers
Their three Z-axis driven motors are different and move up and down, forming a triangle that adjusts to all the X, Y, and Z-axis at the center.
- Cartesian Printers
They come with straightforward X, Y, and Z-axis that work independently. The Cartesian printers are of four types as follows;
- Delta Style 3D Printers
- Prusa or Mendel Style 3D Printers
- CoreXY and H-bot Style 3D Printers
- Ultimate or Darwin Style 3D Printers
Although there are various 3D printer types, the best kind to build is the fused deposition modeling (FDM) because it’s dominant, easy to use, and cheap. But this Printer’s options are many. They range from the basic quality to professional-grade FDM 3D printer with costs ranging from $150 to over $5,000.
You may find yourself not able to raise this kind of money and opt for a budget 3D printing. The best budget 3D printer is the one you build yourself. What’s impressive about making a 3D printer from the scratch is that you learn so much about the Printer’s interior and functions. It also opens up room for innovation where you can add some extras or do customization.
Apart from building a 3D printer from the scratch, you can also create one from a kit. In this article, you shall learn how to make a printer using both methods. Let’s get started!
Method 1: Building a 3D Printer from a Kit
Comparing the two approaches, this DIY 3D Printer is more convenient to make because it has all the necessary parts. You don’t have to look for the elements as you would while building from the start. Besides, the building process is easy because it comes with a manual illustrating how to make the printer step by step. What’s impressive about creating a 3D printer from a kit is that the printing quality is not different from a fully-assembled machine. The only difference is the price. The built one is cheaper by far, making it ideal for a person with budget constraints. Here is how you create such a printer;
Step 1: Order the Kit
3D printer kits are several on the market. You quickly get one from the store or order online. The Creality Ender series and Tronxy printers are among the most popular kits people love to buy. Great examples are Prusa i3 MK3S and the latest 5SA. The kit consists of every part you need, and they come ready for assembling. So you need not do any drilling or soldering. The voltage requirements of each piece come ready and matched. You work to put them together, as illustrated in the instructions manual.
Step 2: Follow the Instruction Manual and Assemble the Printer
After getting the printer kit, open the package and gently remove all the parts and instruction manual. Then use the instructions to assemble the pieces. But before you create your Printer, here are some tips for optimal results.
Tips for Assembling a DIY 3D Printer Kit
- Follow the Instructions from the Manual
Unless you take instructions from a professional 3D printer kit assembler, don’t take them from anyone else. Strictly follow what the manual says. Otherwise, the results of your assembled 3D printer will be a rude shock! Before you execute any instruction from the manual, ensure you understand it. Fortunately, most 3Dprinter kits come with detailed instructions of both how to assemble or troubleshoot a problem.
Take your time and read through them. Some manufacturers go a notch higher and create explicit videos for the same. Watch the videos keenly and take notes. If not happy with the assembling instructions provided, try searching for more info from other sources like Google. Ensure you have gone through all the necessary information before you start assembling your 3D Printer.
- Take Your Time and be Calm
Assembling a 3D printer from a kit needs time and knowledge. It may be tricky, especially for the first-timers. It is not a guarantee that you will nail it in your first attempt, even as an experienced assembler. You may miss a step or misunderstand a point and do it wrong. In such cases, don’t panic or get annoyed. Learn to be patient and attempt the process again, this time paying attention to all details. In the end, you will enjoy your patient and hard work by creating a superb 3D printer.
- Bed Leveling
Ensure you have a well-leveled bed before you start the assembling process. Otherwise, the parts may not shape evenly.
- Get an Ideal Software
Though most DIY 3D print kits usually come with their software, it may not be enough for your intended printer use purpose. You may need extra firmware or software. Look for the best one on the market before you start building the Printer. Some come with a hefty budget. But if you require the software but don’t have any money, you can go for the free downloads. They also work out great in improving your Printer’s performance and capability.
Method 2: Building a 3D Printer from the scratch
When looking for a budget 3D printing, building the Printer from scratch is the way to go. The process might be challenging, but it an excellent way of learning about 3D printer parts and how they operate. Unlike creating a printer from a kit, this process is much fun. But to take on this method, you need to be conversant with 3D printers and how they work. You should know the parts to get and how to fix them. If you have no idea, here is how you build a 3D printer from scratch.
Step 1: Know What You Need
Before you start assembling the parts to use, you should have answers to the following questions;
- What Printer Size Do You Want?
You cannot start creating a printer without knowing what size you need. Besides, how will you even know the size of the parts you require if you have no idea of the printer size? When you confirm the printer size you need, it becomes easy picking the right frame type to use.
- What Printer Type Do You Require?
As illustrated earlier in this article, there are various types of 3D printers you can build. Depending on the purpose and what you prefer, you should pick what to make. Your Printer’s type will determine how the print head and bed move. The Cartesian printers are great examples. Their print heads move on the X and Y axis, and their bed on the Z-axis.
- Which Nozzles Should Get Used?
Depending on the resolution you require in your Printer, you get to choose the ideal nozzle. Nozzles come in different sizes and get made using various materials. The standard size of a nozzle is 0.4mm. Sizes range from 0.1mm – 1mm. Nozzles above 0.4mm come high in strength, have few print errors, and shorter print time. Those with a dimension over 0.4mm has higher precision, top-notch overhangs, clogs often, and can remove supports with ease. The 0.4mm size nozzle is preferred because they offer a perfect accuracy and print speed balance.
- How Many Extruders Do You Need?
Though most printers require one extruder, you can put two. You only need to get a control board that supports two extruders. Then configure the Printer to support both extruders.
Step 2: Collect the Parts
After knowing what you want in your 3D Printer, start looking for all the parts. To give you an insight into the parts you require, check out the following;
3D Printer Parts Required for its Building
- Controller
Any standard 3D printer will work out great with a RAMPS shield or an Ardunino Mega controller.
- Print Head
It consists of the element, fan, extruder, and sensor. Either Bowden or a direct extruder can do a great job. The motor of the extruder can either be on the frame or extruder.
- Print Bed
It is the flat surface for your Printer and helps it to stay firm. You can choose a print bed of various types created with different materials. Examples of the most commonly used print beds are those made with glass plates containing an added flexible sheet on its top.
- The Frame
You can either buy or build yourself a printer frame of your choice. Whatever you go for, ensure it’s sturdy and durable.
- Stepper Motors
Any 3D printers require at least four motors. Two are for the X and Y axis while the other two will be for the z-axis. Also, all the extruders should have at least one motor. If you can have all your motors work the first time you build your 3D Printer, then you must be fortunate. It is a bit tricky but doable. The potentiometer found on the motor driver’s top has to get matched with the motor current.
- End Stops
The print head movement starts at the home position or origin of 0, 0, 0. Its head stops are at the “0” position of every axis.
- Power Supply
For a budget 3D printing, you cannot ignore the issue of power. You should calculate the power level you require for the 3D Printer you’re building. Usually, 3D printers use a 12 V (24 A) or 24 V power supply. 12 V is ideal for printing using a 1.75 – mm PLA filament, while 24 V suits a 3 – mm ABS filament. It is essential to note the power voltage to ensure all other parts like the bed, fan, or extruder gets designed to suit that voltage. If not, look for the parts that match your power voltage.
Before you assemble the parts to start building your 3D Printer, you need to be cautious as it is risky, especially dealing with power. Here are some safety tips that will help you keep safe during the building process;
- A shock from High Voltage Power
While creating your 3D Printer, a time will come, and you’ll need to check the voltage and if the fixed part is working. Some use high voltage power that might shock you if not used correctly. Always use a power supply that has a guard. Otherwise, you may injure yourself. Also, don’t assume that you’re using the right voltage. Before turning on the power supply, confirm that it’s the correct voltage you’re using. It could either be 110 V or 220 V. Keep on checking the multimeter to ensure the voltage indicated is the right one. Ensure that power is always off before connecting parts like sensors and motors.
- Burns
Depending on the filament type you’re using on your 3D Printer, the nozzle can heat up to 200 degrees Celsius. This kind of heat could burn you if you encountered it with your bare skin. Always wear protection or be cautious when working on the print head.
- Fire Hazard
An unfinished 3D Printer is very dangerous as it can catch fire at any time. Never leave it unattended. If you have to leave it for a while, disconnect parts that can cause fire and ensure the power supply is off. You can also monitor your unattended unfinished 3D Printer using a remote system. The system can help alarm you when a fire is about to happen, helping prevent fire hazards.
Now that you got all the parts you require for building your 3D Printer assembled to your working station and have taken all the safety measures, you can now start building your Printer.
Step 3: Building the 3D Printer
Stage 1: Build the Frame or Base
Take three metal rods of your preferred printer size and join them by screwing two l-shaped pieces of metal or welding. Then drill four holes on each of the l-shaped metal pieces and rod metals and fit in screws. Tighten the screws with nuts on the other side. The L bracelets help in creating a robust frame.
Stage 2: Fi the U-Channels
U-channels are essential for supporting the X and Y-axis. Place them on the frame, each at a distance. Then attach them to the frame by drilling four holes and screwing them tightly. You can choose the u-channels based on the size ideal for the Printer you’re building. To help fix the Z-axis fixture, drill a hole at the center of the frame’s back.
Stage 3: Mounted Ball Bearings Fixation
Measure the exact distance between the two U-shaped channels and mark the middle. That will be the bearing center. Then use some screws to fix the bearing. The mounted bearings should be directly opposite to each other.
Stage 4: Make the X-Axis Stepper Motor Holster
Use any robust metal sheet. First, measure the horizontal distance of any of the two stepper motor holes. Then fix the coupler using the small screws that come with it. Ensure they get firmly fixed to the threaded rod and stepper motor. The coupler should be 1cm apart with the metal rod. While the stepper motor is at that position, note the distance from the metal rod’s top to any of the stepper holes. Don’t forget to drill holes to the holster to attach it to the stepper, and two more at the bottom for frame attachment.
Stage 5: Make the X-Axis Platform and Carriage
Take an M8 coupling nut and bend a sturdy sheer of metal around its four out of six corners. Do this with the other two nuts to make them three, each for every axis. Then attach into a vice a piece of metal cut in the nut’s size and fold it on to the fifth side of the nut. Drill a hole at the two loose sides of the metal sheet when pressed together. Then screw each on to the threaded rod and attach the stepper motor holster.
Stage 6: Make the Y-Axis Platform
Take the acrylic sheet and fix the u-channels. Attach the structure of the coupling nut at the acrylic sheet’s center. Then drill holes on the acrylic where the heated bed will get placed.
Stage 7: Make the Stepper Motor Holster for the Y-Axis
Use the same method used earlier in making the X-Axis Stepper Holster. But this time, the screwing should get done at the stepper motor’s bottom holes. Always ensure that you screw the coupling nut structure to the threaded rod before attaching the motor and holster. If not so, you may end up undoing the whole processing in the later stages.
Stage 8: Making the Z-Axis Carriage
Take the last two u-channels and fix them outside the frame to act as the Z-axis rail. Also, take the last acrylic sheet and drill a hole at its center to attach the coupling nut structure as done with the other axis.
Stage 9: Make the Extruder Holster
You require a robust metal sheet, hot end nozzle, and filament extruder for this stage. As illustrated in stage two, cut the metal and bend it around the extruder nozzle. Ensure the metal slit is larger than the threaded rod’s hot end. Then attach the holster to the hot end nozzle and filament and use the extra nut to ensure the holster’s entire extruder is tightly bound. Connect the earlier made Z-axis to the holster using nuts and bolts.
Stage 10: Making the Stepper Motor Holster for the Z-Axis
Make it as you did with the Y in the earlier stages. That means you will require a piece of metal and some measurements as done before. Refer to the previous stages of this process. Then confirm that the coupling nut device lies between the bearings. If so, take the threaded rod attached to the motor and slide it through one bearing. Then screw the coupling nut device on it. After this stage, your 3D Printer gets done. You only need to wire it up.
Stage 11: Connecting the Heated Bed to the Y-Axis Platform
Use a heat resistant tape of your choice to connect the heated bed with 100k thermistor. The smooth side of the heated bed should get used on top. Stick the 100k thermistor in the heated bed’s hole, but shouldn’t protrude to the other side. Then solder two wires to the thermistor’s ends. Take nuts, fix them on each hole at the heated bed corners, and place it on the Y-axis platform. All the nuts in the heated bed should fit in the holes drilled on the axis. Then wire them up by rolling the negative ends together, soldering one of the positive wires to the heated bed’s terminal 1, and the negative wire to terminals 2 and 3.
Stage 12: Attach the Endstops
You will require three endstops. Each endstop should get attached adjacent to the stepper motor of every axis. Use either of the u-channel that supports the axis’ platform. You can use super glue to make them stick firmly.
Stage 13: Wire the Power Supply
Strip the three cable wire and open the plug’s upper side. Then attach the wires to the plug, keeping in mind the Earth, Live, and Neutral wires. Then close the plug firmly. Then connect the Arduino Mega and RAMPS 1.4 shield such that the Arduino Mega sits on top perfectly.
Stage 14: Install an Ideal Software
Software are many, and you are free to use what you prefer. Each software comes with installation instructions. Strictly follow the instructions to the later.
Conclusion
Embarking on a budget 3D printing project is not easy, but it’s worth the hustle. It’s not a must you buy a 3D printer when you have money issues. You can use either of the two methods illustrated above to build one. Though the process may take much of your time and concentration, it is much cheaper and equally effective as a readymade 3D printer. Besides, building a 3D printer from the scratch teaches you a lot about the Printer and its functionality.